Digital Solar Power Controller Regulator Power Bank

If you are using solar energy for powering the batteries you use in your household in your day-to-day life, it's important to use a proper digital solar charge controller. These types of controller come in several sizes and capacities. The way they work is regulating the power from the solar panels towards the batteries.

This way you could control the input of system batteries preventing overcharges (or undercharges) promoting long life to batteries. Whether it's a small business unit or a small residence, a high-quality solar charge controller is needed for optimizing any power solar generator system using batteries.

So if you want the best service from your solar panels, It is crucial for the batteries to get the necessary energy flow in order to get charged properly, so that’s the job of the solar power regulator circuit, offering uninterrupted power supply used in several household items.

Why do I need one charge controller (CC)? A charge regulator is a voltage and/or current regulator in order to keep batteries from overcharging. As its name says It regulates the voltage coming from solar panels and going to the battery to avoid damages from overcharging.

Most batteries need around 14 to 14.5 volts to get fully charged. So a PV charge controller is required in almost every solar power systems that utilize batteries. You can find them with an digital display or even with monitor interfaces, so as you can imagine you could do a better monitoring using these last ones for maintaining the solar power of your system long-term.

Not only you can use batteries, you can also pass the current to the inverters with the purpose for converting direct current (DC) to alternate current (AC). Another important function of these solar energy controllers is preserving battery life at night. why? at night, if you don’t use these power regulators, your batteries could be drained because the stored power will flow backwards to the solar modules, so the solar charge regulator helps to stop the reverse flowing of current.

So your power regulators act as gatekeepers to control and optimize the power coming to the batteries and also from the batteries when they stop any reverse current from your battery bank back to source in those cases when these solar panels are not producing any current, during nighttime hours or long periods of very overcast days.

If you are looking for a solar kit with digital regulator, keep in mind these options.(#ad)

Go Power! GP-RV-95 95-Watt Solar Kit with 30 Amp Digital Regulator 

Highest efficiency on the market from this monocrystalline solar panel with the most power in the smallest dimensions.

Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit

Ideal output: 500Wh per day; can fully charge a 50Ah battery from 50% in 3 hours (depending on the availability of sunlight).

In order to find the right Photovoltaic regulator, you first need to keep quality in mind, you will find a lot of controllers manufactures, but don’t ever compromise on quality going for the cheaper ones, at the end will cost you more because battery life won’t be optimum, and you will have fewer headaches .

Whichever components you end up using for your own solar energy generator system, make sure you use the battery bank that best suits your location and price range. Also it's important to get the proper solar power bank. Also ease of installation is another good factor to consider when choosing the right one.

Not only the ones which are easy to install but that are user-friendly.These Solar Powered Systems are very easy to install, and they are cost-efficient since generally you pay for them one time investment. You just simply install a stand alone PV (Photo Voltaic) System over the roof of your house and you will enjoy electricity for your house in an efficient way.

When choosing the right power controller, look specifically for durability and efficiency. Who wouldn't like to enjoy uninterrupted power supply?. So a good PV charge Controller it’s vital in your system. Since batteries are the medium where you will be storing the power that your energy generator system produces, you should match the voltage of your battery banks with the voltage of your solar panels.

Get Your Solar Panel Kit And Supplies For Green Energy In Your Properties!!

You can use flooded Batteries (the ones with removable service caps for replacing the water inside) and the sealed Batteries (they are considered safer for indoor use unlike the flooded ones and they are more efficient), choose the best ones for your own energy saving project.

A good one I saw was the sony power bank 10000mah. Maximum Power Point Tracking is a good controller for multistage charging which matches the bank voltage to the voltage of the solar panels, thus they are more efficient on delivering more power to the battery bank.

The use of solar panels have increased over the last few years, and those are good news because we as society will need to make sure our children have a cleaner world to live in. Within the solar power generator system, it’s crucial to use a solar charge controller or a power regulator if you are relying on this kind of energy for your daily needs.

The main job of a CC in a photovoltaic system is to regulate the voltage, flow and direction of power from the panels to the battery power bank, ensuring an optimum battery life avoiding this to be overcharged or undercharged, so don't forget a good digital solar power controller for your solar system.

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Are you having communication problems or seeing readings you don't trust? Is it possible your solar-charged power supply is the cause? How can you find out for sure?

Many data acquisition system failures are caused by problems with the power supply. These may include issues with batteries, charge regulators, or charging sources. Here we’ll look at seven steps to help you find out if your solar-charged power supply has a problem.

Most of the steps outlined here involve direct current (dc) or voltage measurements on different parts of your power system. To measure the dc voltage, set your DMM to the 20 Vdc range with the red probe firmly in the mAVΩ socket and the black probe firmly in the COM socket. During testing, you will touch the red probe to one of the following: the terminal screw labeled 12V, +, or the bare end of a red wire. In contrast, you will touch the black probe to one of these: the terminal screw labeled G, -, or the bare end of a black wire.

1. Test the datalogger POWER IN

You can check whether the datalogger is getting power from the power supply by following these steps:

1. Measure the voltage on the power input terminals of the datalogger. Most Campbell Scientific dataloggers have a green plug that connects to a socket labeled POWER IN. (If your datalogger does not have the two-pin connector, you will need to trace the wires from the battery to the datalogger and make the measurements there).

2. Touch the black probe to the terminal screw labeled G or Battery -.

3. Touch the red probe to the terminal screw labeled 12V or Battery +. (If the voltage reads greater than 11 V, the test is successful, and your datalogger is receiving enough power.) (If the voltage reads less than 11 V, there is likely an issue with your power supply. Work through the following steps to find out where it is failing.)

2. Ensure the power supply is turned on

You might be surprised how common it is for someone to turn off the power to a datalogger for some reason and then forget to turn it back on later. (If the power switch is in the Off position, move it to the On position, and repeat step #1.) (If the power switch is already in the On position, proceed to step #3.)

3. Measure the voltage on the power supply

If you look at your power supply, do you see multiple terminals labeled 12V and G? Just pick one of each terminal type to use.Measure the voltage between the 12 volt and ground terminals on your power supply. If you measure more than 11 V on the power regulator, but less than 11 V on the datalogger, check the wires that connect them. (If you find a loose wire, turn off the power before reconnecting it.) (If you find good electrical connections on the wires, move on to step #4.)

4. Check the voltage on the battery

At this step in the process, your measurements have been less than 11 V for both the datalogger and the power supply. The next step is to test the battery voltage with the black probe on the negative (-) terminal and the red probe on the positive (+) terminal. (If the voltage reads greater than 11 V, the battery is OK, but the power supply needs to be returned for repair. Contact to the seller for a Returned Material Authorization (RMA).) (If the voltage reads less than 11 V, disconnect the battery.)

5. Without a battery attached, check the voltage on the power supply

With the battery disconnected, you can recheck the voltage on the power supply using step #3 as a guide. (If the voltage between 12V and G reads 13 to 14 V, the battery needs to be replaced.)

Now check the voltage on the two charge terminals of the power supply. These are both labeled CHG, but it doesn't matter which color probe you put on which terminal. (If the voltage on the charge terminals reads more than 17 V, the power supply needs to be returned for repair. Contact to the seller for a Returned Material Authorization (RMA).)

6. Measure the voltage on the solar panel

Now it's time to disconnect the solar panel from the power supply. You can measure the panel’s voltage by touching the probes to the ends of the panel’s bare wires. Be sure to do this test during the day at a time when the solar panel is not covered or in the shade. With the red probe touching the red wire, and the black probe touching the black wire, measure the voltage. (If the voltage on the solar panel reads less than 17 V when the panel is in full sun, the solar panel needs to be replaced.)

7. Test the current of the solar panel

For this last step, set your DMM to measure amps so that you can measure the current coming from the solar panel. Tip: To avoid sparking, it's good practice to temporarily cover the solar panel with a cloth or something similar.

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Depending on the time of day and weather, your measurement will probably be lower than the maximum listed, but it should be close to the value that is appropriate for the size of your solar panel.

When the panel is in the sun, if the measurement of the current from the solar panel is close to the maximum output current, but the voltage on the 12V and G terminals from step #5 is less than 13 to 14 V, then the power supply should be returned for repair. Contact to the seller for a Returned Material Authorization (RMA).

If the measurement of the current from the solar panel isn't realistic, either the solar panel or the wires connecting the solar panel to the power supply may be damaged.

In Summary to find a power supply problem, we start at the datalogger and test each part of the system back to the charging source. After you perform these steps, contact Campbell Scientific if you find any of the conditions outlined below:

Condition: The voltage from the power supply is less than 11 V with the battery attached, but the voltage increases to 13 to 14 V when the battery is disconnected.

CauseThe battery needs to be replaced.

Condition: The battery voltage is more than 11 V, but the voltage from the power supply is less than 11 V.

Cause: The power supply needs to be repaired.

Condition: The voltage on the charge terminals is more than 17 V, but the voltage between 12V and G on the power supply is outside the range of 13 to 14 V.

Cause: The power supply needs to be repaired.

Condition: The current output from the solar panel is realistic, but the voltage between 12V and G on the power supply is outside the range of 13 to 14 V.

Cause: The power supply needs to be repaired.

Condition: When the solar panel is in the sun, the solar panel voltage is considerably less than 17 V.

CauseThe solar panel is defective or damaged.

Condition: When the solar panel is in the sun, the solar panel current is not close to its maximum output current.

Cause: The solar panel is defective or damaged.

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